Cerrito’s Pupuseria: A Quick Bite (4½ Stars)

Cerritos Pupuseria

Just a non-desrcript build on the side of the road

I drive by this place frequently, every time thinking I should give it a shot. I finally got around to it and am kicking myself for not doing so sooner.

This place is small, no more than 4 or 5 tables. Folks looked at me like I was lost. No, truly, I want to eat here! At first I was disheartened by the menu, which is populated with typical Mexican/Salvadoran fare that you’ll see in any number of places through out DC, none of which is particularly adventurous. Then I noticed the white board. That’s where the real food is listed.

Taco, Tamale and Pupusa

Taco, Tamale and Pupusa

I ordered a pork pupusa, beef tongue taco and a chicken tamale. This is, by far, the best pupusa I have ever had: lightly crispy on the outside while the contents had a creamy consistency. The flavors worked well with the slaw and salsa to make the sum of the whole greater than the parts. This alone was worth the trip.

When I mention tongue tacos to most people, they recoil in horror. They should not. There’s nothing funky in the taste like, say, liver. It’s just a lean piece of beef. And this taco is an excellent example of what can be done. With the pico de gallo and a squeeze of lime, I was in heaven. Yet again, this alone was worth the trip.

As for the tamale, I admit to some trepidation. It is really hard to find a well made tamale. Cerrito’s does theirs well. The filing was more than just the single note of chicken, it included chunks of potato and green beans. One was just enough, any more and I would have been filled to bursting.

I will definitely make a return visit, and so should you. They are on Rt. 50, about 4 miles west of the intersection with Rt. 28.

Cerrito’s Pupuseria
43137 John Mosby Hwy
Chantilly, VA 20152
(703) 327-0052

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Published in: on August 10, 2009 at 11:23 am  Comments (6)  
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Meatpaper, Issue 8 (Grade: A-)

Meatpaper Issue 8

Meatpaper Issue 8

Let’s just get this out of the way right now: I love Meatpaper! I’ve been a subscriber since the beginning and read every issue cover to cover. The latest edition is another example of high quality writing and excellent photography.

Content: 55/60

There are a few articles here that really made me think. In particular, I enjoyed Heather Smith’s discussion in A Modest Proposal: A Selective History of Telling People What to Eat. This delves into the essence of Don’t Yuck My Yum: How meat eaters and vegetarians feel threatened by each other. Her article on hot dogs is also worth a read.

Meatpaper is not just about the consumption of meat, but rather fleischgeist:

Fleisch•geist (flish’gist’) n. From the German, Fleisch “meat” + Geist “spirit.” Spirit of the meat. From Zeitgeist, “spirit of the times.”

This spirit includes articles on how bulls are enticed into participating in artificial insemination, hunting with eskimos and taxidermy. This issue misses the perfect mark for the article on the shock value of certain food TV shows. I feel the author really stretches to make the facts fit the theory. Oh, and my usual complaint about Meatpaper: It’s too short!

Quality: 18/20

As usual, this is a well crafted publication that is artfully assembled. Given the wide range of styles, this could easily have been garish and jarring. But they pull it off well. My only complaint is the lack of captions on nearly all photos. Sure, I can infer meaning from the accompanying copy, but I’d like some specifics.

Food Porn: 18/20

There is always some seriously good photos in this magazine, but this issue does not have as many good money shots. About the only one is on the end papers. Mmmm, pancetta. The carving up of the whale blubber kind of killed my appetite, though.

Recipes: 0/0

No recipes, but that’s OK. Meatpaper isn’t a cooking magazine.

Final Score: 91/100 (A-)

Published in: on August 2, 2009 at 2:53 pm  Leave a Comment  
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